On July 14, as the summer heat began to fade, Cong Hua wandered through the maze of hutongs around Beijing’s Shichahai area, where narrow alleyways open onto old courtyard homes, quiet teahouses and bicycles leaning against weathered brick walls.
With no fixed destination, she followed the winding lanes toward the lakeside, where the city’s pace seemed to slow. Boats drifted across the water, willow branches swayed in the evening breeze, and reflections of historic buildings shimmered on the lake’s surface.
“Then, just as I turned toward the western sky, the clouds caught fire with shades of gold and crimson. The unexpected sunset over Shichahai transformed an ordinary walk into an amazing moment,” she wrote in a Xiaohongshu post that quickly drew hundreds of likes and comments.
For Cong, Shichahai’s appeal lay not in a single landmark but in the quiet connections among its streets, waterways and history — a feeling shared by many visitors seeking a glimpse of old Beijing.
Among them was Hanne Vermeulen, a 21-year-old student from Belgium, who explored the lakeside with her family during a three-day visit to Beijing. As evening fell, lanterns reflected across the water while boats glided through the twilight and conversations from nearby streets blended with birdsong.
“It is a very lovely and peaceful area to have a walk and nice food,” she said. “We really enjoyed the area.”
Visitors take a sightseeing rickshaw to explore the Shichahai area in Beijing on July 2. [Photo by Zou Hong/China Daily]
It was not Vermeulen’s first visit to China. After traveling to the country in 2024 and studying Chinese language and culture for a semester at Liaoning University in Shenyang, Liaoning province, she returned this summer with a deeper appreciation for historic neighborhoods such as Shichahai.
For today’s visitors, Shichahai is remembered for its tranquil atmosphere, where an unhurried walk may reveal a memorable sunset, a quiet corner or a tangible connection with the city’s past. Yet the peaceful landscape is also the product of decades of transformation.
More than 80 years ago, celebrated Chinese writer Lao She immortalized the area in his essay Fond Memories of Peiping, describing “willow-lined embankments, vast stretches of lotus blossoms, dense reeds, flocks of waterfowl and the deafening chorus of cicadas”. If he were to revisit Shichahai today, he might still recognize echoes of the landscape he captured in words.
Not long ago, however, the area had become better known for its bustling nightlife, crowded commercial streets and loud bar music. In recent years, restoration efforts targeting the lakes, wetlands and surrounding environment have reshaped the neighborhood. Today, birdsong has replaced amplified music, wetlands have returned to the lakeshore and wild ducks once again paddle through cleaner waters.
The transformation represents more than environmental rehabilitation. It also marks a cultural revival, restoring the atmosphere that inspired one of modern Chinese literature’s best-known essays while creating a richer experience for residents and visitors alike.
Located at the intersection of Beijing’s Central Axis and the Grand Canal system, both UNESCO World Heritage sites, Shichahai has occupied a unique place in the city’s history for centuries.
Before the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the area was known simply as haizi. Eventually, Shichahai — comprising Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai — became the northern terminus of the Grand Canal, where cargo boats carrying grain and goods from southern China arrived in the imperial capital.
“As the terminal point of the Grand Canal transport system, Shichahai served multiple functions during the Yuan capital of Dadu,” said Sun Meng, a researcher at the Beijing Institute of Archaeology.
Beyond its role in shipping and trade, the area was also an important center of commerce and leisure, he said.
“More than 700 years later, boats still glide across the lakes, while surrounding buildings have been revitalized into cultural and tourism landmarks, offering new ways to interpret and share the value of heritage.”
Chen Jiandong, who has worked in Shichahai’s tourism industry for nearly two decades and now operates traditional rickshaw tours, has witnessed the district’s evolution firsthand. Upgraded routes now link the narrow hutongs with the lakeside, giving visitors a more immersive way to experience the neighborhood, he said.
“Shichahai attracts tourists from around the world because it brings together history, atmosphere and everyday life in a highly walkable, visually rich setting in central Beijing,” Chen said.